Monday, April 03, 2000

Safe Surfing

Heh.  The wind and waves were kickin' today.  My big toe still hasn't healed from
last week, so I put a condom over it and hopped on the board.  I think the condom
was past its expiration date anyway. :-\  The wind was yoyo'ing up and down from 5
to 30 MPH, and there was a good sized swell with a very short period.  It made
conditions, umm, challenging.  I think I saw about twenty or so twisted windsurf
rig remains washing in from the impact zone, with bodies trailing.  At one point, I
barely made it out over the first wave of a set when the wind died.  It wouldn't
have been so bad, except there were two other dudes and what was left of their rigs
getting washed toward me in the next wave.  I think the boards all knocked around a
bit on that one, and I took an inconsequential knock to the head, but I couldn't
see any damage, and managed to get up and out of there before the next set.

It was a darn fun day though.  Lots of hair brain maneuvers on my part, but no
resulting badness.  Funniest moment: I came in with one of the bigger sets, but the
wind died just as I was getting into the impact zone and I lost the wave I was
going for.  So, I'm dogging along, and look behind me to see this huge mother of a
wave cresting and breaking...  there was a guy on it too - I'm surprised he didn't
fall off laughing from seeing the look on my face as the big wall of white water
took me out.  That one got me pretty good.

All's good.  Except for the broken condom; those are always bad.  And my body is
yelling at me for general abuse, but it's a good kind of sore.

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